Montreuil-sur-Mer: Why This Charming French Town Became One of the Highlights of Our French Road Trip
When we started planning our road trip through France, Montreuil-sur-Mer wasn’t somewhere I’d spent hours researching or dreaming about visiting. In fact, I’d mainly chosen it because it seemed like a sensible place to stop before going home after our road trip through France (after Spain and Mallorca!). It broke up the journey nicely and meant we wouldn’t have to spend hours driving the morning of the ferry.
Sometimes those practical decisions end up becoming some of the best parts of a holiday. That was certainly the case here.

Arriving in Montreuil-sur-Mer
As soon as we arrived, I had a feeling we’d made the right choice. Instead of another busy town full of traffic and chain hotels, we found ourselves in a beautiful historic town with cobbled streets, impressive old buildings and a relaxed atmosphere. It felt authentically French in the best possible way. People were sitting outside cafés enjoying a coffee or a glass of wine, colourful flowers decorated windows and doorways, and everywhere we looked, there seemed to be another pretty corner worth photographing.
By the time we left the following morning, I wished we’d booked another night.
If you’re travelling through northern France, whether you’re heading towards Normandy, Brittany or even much further south, I’d really encourage you to consider stopping here. It’s much more than somewhere to sleep before continuing your journey. It’s a destination in its own right.

Where is Montreuil-sur-Mer?
Montreuil-sur-Mer is in the Pas-de-Calais region of northern France, around 45 minutes to an hour south of Calais by car. That makes it an ideal first stop after arriving from the UK or a lovely final night before catching the ferry home.
The name often confuses people because “sur-Mer” means “on the sea”, yet today the town is actually several miles inland. Hundreds of years ago it really was an important coastal port, but over time the estuary gradually silted up and the sea retreated, leaving the town surrounded by rolling countryside instead.
Its position still makes it incredibly convenient for travellers. You’re close enough to the main roads that getting there is easy, but once you arrive it feels as though you’ve stepped into another world.
If you prefer taking your time on a road trip rather than rushing from one destination to the next, Montreuil-sur-Mer is perfectly placed. It gives you the chance to slow down, stretch your legs and actually experience true French life.

Why We Decided to Stay Here
When we’re planning a road trip, I always try to think realistically about how we’ll feel after travelling and how far we can travel each day realistically. We are also conscious about the time of the ferry crossing and not having to get up really early on the final day to make it.
Originally, Montreuil-sur-Mer was simply meant to solve that problem. It was somewhere to stop not too far from Calais so that we could drive the last bit in time for our midday ferry back home after a lovely holiday.
It looked attractive on the map, had a good choice of accommodation and wasn’t too far from Calais. That was about as much thought as I’d given it. We didn’t have plans to do anything other than eat and sleep before an early night ready for breakfast and the ferry the next day.
Looking back, I’m so pleased we didn’t just book the nearest motorway hotel. Stopping somewhere with real character completely changed the start of our holiday. Instead of waking up feeling like we’d spent a night in a boring hotel ready to go home, we felt like we wanted to stay here and never go home!
It’s a reminder that sometimes it’s worth making the journey part of the adventure rather than simply something to get through.

Our First Impressions
One of the things I noticed almost immediately was how peaceful everything felt.
Even though people were out enjoying themselves, there wasn’t the noise and rush that you often get in larger tourist destinations. Cars moved slowly through the narrow streets, people smiled as they walked past, and there was a lovely sense that nobody was in a hurry.
Parking was straightforward too, which is always a relief when you’re travelling with a car full of luggage.
As we walked towards our hotel, I found myself constantly stopping to look at buildings. There were colourful shutters, climbing flowers, old stone walls and beautifully maintained historic buildings everywhere you looked. The whole town felt incredibly well cared for without feeling artificial or over-polished.
I love places that don’t feel as though they’re trying too hard to impress visitors. Montreuil-sur-Mer is simply itself, and that’s exactly why it’s so appealing. It has that effortless charm you often hope to find in France but don’t always discover.

A Town Full of History
You don’t have to be particularly interested in history to appreciate Montreuil-sur-Mer. You can feel its history simply by walking through it.
The town has existed in one form or another for over a thousand years and has played an important role because of its strategic position. Over the centuries, it became heavily fortified, and those impressive defences remain one of its biggest attractions today.

The enormous stone walls surrounding the town are remarkably well preserved. They aren’t just something to admire from a distance either – you can actually walk around much of them and enjoy fantastic views over both the town and the surrounding countryside.
Montreuil-sur-Mer is also well known because of its connection to Victor Hugo’s Les Misérables. Hugo is believed to have based parts of the fictional town of Montreuil-sur-Mer in his famous novel on the real town, and you’ll notice references to the story as you explore. Even if you haven’t read the book or seen the musical, it’s another fascinating layer to the town’s history.
What I liked most, though, was that none of this history feels hidden away in museums. It’s all around you. Every street, every old building and every section of the ancient walls tells part of the story.

Walking the Ramparts
If there’s one thing I’d recommend everyone does while visiting Montreuil-sur-Mer, it’s walking the ramparts. This turned out to be one of my favourite parts of our stay.
The walk isn’t especially difficult, although there are some uneven surfaces and a few gentle inclines in places, so comfortable shoes are definitely a good idea. I took my time, stopping frequently to admire the views and, in my case, to take far too many photographs.

From the top of the walls you get a completely different perspective of the town. You can see church spires rising above the rooftops, pretty gardens tucked behind old stone houses and miles of green countryside stretching into the distance.
It’s hard to imagine that somewhere so peaceful was once built for defence.
I loved how quiet Montreuil-sur-Mer was too. Even during the warmer weather, it wasn’t crowded. Instead, it was one of those walks where you naturally slow down and appreciate where you are.
For anyone interested in photography, it’s an absolute dream. Whether you love photographing landscapes, architecture or simply looking for those little details that tell a story, you’ll find plenty of inspiration.

Wandering Without a Plan
One of my favourite ways to explore somewhere new is simply to wander. No maps, itinerary or ticking attractions off a list. Montreuil-sur-Mer is the perfect place for that kind of exploring.
Every street in Montreuil-sur-Mer seems to reveal something different. One moment you’re walking past an elegant old townhouse with flower-filled window boxes, and the next you’re peering down a narrow side street, wondering where it leads. There are independent shops selling everything from local produce to gifts, cafés with outdoor tables and little bakeries where it’s impossible not to stop and admire the pastries in the window.

I always think you can tell a lot about a place by how it makes you feel, and Montreuil-sur-Mer made me feel relaxed almost immediately. There was no pressure to rush around trying to see everything. Instead, it encouraged us to slow down, notice the details and simply enjoy being there.
As someone who loves taking photographs, I was in my element. Every few minutes, I found another doorway, another colourful display of flowers or another beautiful old building that deserved a place in my camera roll. Even if photography isn’t your hobby, I think you’ll find yourself reaching for your phone more often than you expect.

It’s also one of those places where you’ll notice little things that don’t usually make it into guidebooks. The carefully tended gardens, the sound of church bells in the distance, locals chatting outside cafés, and the smell of fresh bread drifting from a bakery all add to the experience. Those are the moments I remember most from travelling, and Montreuil-sur-Mer was full of them.
By the end of our afternoon and evening exploring, it already felt like we’d discovered somewhere special. We hadn’t been rushing between attractions or queuing to get into famous landmarks. We’d simply spent a few hours wandering, taking everything in and enjoying the slower pace of life. Sometimes, that’s what makes a place unforgettable.

Staying at Aux Temps d’Em – A Hotel I’d Happily Return To
Finding somewhere to stay for just one night can be surprisingly difficult.
You want somewhere that’s comfortable after a long drive, but you don’t necessarily want a faceless hotel beside a motorway. At the same time, you don’t want to pay luxury prices for somewhere you’re only using as a stopover.
Aux Temps d’Em somehow manages to be the perfect balance.

It’s the sort of place that makes you wish you’d booked for longer, and by the time we were packing the car the following morning, I was already saying that if we ever return to Montreuil-sur-Mer, I’d stay here again without even looking at other hotels.
Sometimes you can tell a hotel has been created with genuine care rather than simply to provide somewhere for people to sleep. That’s exactly how Aux Temps d’Em felt.

First Impressions
As we arrived, the first thing I noticed was how peaceful everything was in Montreuil-sur-Mer. It immediately has a calm, welcoming atmosphere, almost as though you’ve discovered a little hidden retreat.
The building itself is full of character and blends beautifully with the town. Rather than looking modern or corporate, it feels completely in keeping with its surroundings, which is something I always appreciate when staying somewhere historic.
Checking in was straightforward and friendly. There wasn’t any unnecessary fuss, just a warm welcome that immediately made us feel comfortable.
Those first few minutes often set the tone for a stay, and ours couldn’t have started much better.

A Hotel That Feels Personal
One of the things I liked most about Aux Temps d’Em was that it didn’t feel like staying in a chain hotel. It fit Montreuil-sur-Mer perfectly, unique and special.
We’ve all stayed in hotels where you could wake up and have absolutely no idea what town you’re in because every room looks exactly the same. There’s nothing wrong with that when all you need is somewhere practical, but it doesn’t usually leave much of an impression.
Aux Temps d’Em was completely different. It felt as though every room had been thoughtfully designed rather than simply furnished.
There was personality without being over-the-top. It was stylish without feeling pretentious, and comfortable without losing any of its charm.
It felt more like staying in someone’s beautifully restored home than in a commercial hotel. Those little details really do make a difference.

Our Room
Walking into our room, I immediately smiled. After hours of travelling, it was exactly what I’d hoped for. Montreuil-sur-Mer was gorgeous and so was our room.
It was beautifully decorated, spotlessly clean and very inviting. Everything looked fresh and well cared for, and there was space to unpack without feeling cramped.
The décor struck a lovely balance between modern comfort and traditional French character. Nothing felt overly fussy or dated, but it also didn’t have that generic hotel look where every room could be anywhere in the world.
Despite being at the edge of the market square, it felt incredibly peaceful. There was no traffic noise and we didn’t really hear anything from outside the hotel. During the night, we heard the doors opening and shutting to other rooms, which was quite loud as you would expect from an older building but nothing that stopped us from sleeping.
We had the Quadruple family room, which consisted of a double bed and two single beds. There is a curtain separating the two, so you get a little privacy too, though you all share a shower room. The only downside we saw to the room was that the shower room was very small and quite worn/dated, so it let the room down a little. That said, it did the job and hasn’t put us off wanting to go back!

The Little Touches
I often think it’s the smallest things that separate a good hotel from a memorable one. Anyone can provide a clean room and a comfortable bed, but it’s those extra touches that stay with you afterwards. Aux Temps d’Em had plenty of those.
Everything felt carefully considered rather than simply functional. The furnishings complemented the building beautifully. There was a real sense that the owners genuinely wanted guests to enjoy their stay rather than simply pass through.
Nothing felt rushed. Nothing felt neglected. Instead, everything encouraged you to slow down and enjoy where you were. That probably sounds like an odd thing to say about a hotel, but that’s exactly how it felt.

Amazing Breakfast
I always look forward to breakfast when I’m staying in France. There’s something about fresh French bread and pastries that just tastes better when you’re actually there. That said, we had stayed at some chain hotels that were disappointing, and the bread and pastries were clearly not fresh.
Thankfully, Aux Temps d’Em didn’t disappoint. Breakfast was one of the highlights of our stay. In fact, we all said it was absolutely amazing.
Everything was beautifully presented and very fresh. There was a lovely selection without it feeling excessive or wasteful. Fresh bread, flaky pastries, pancakes, cereal, homemade jams, eggs and bacon, and the best fruit salad I have ever tasted!
Rather than feeling like a busy buffet where everyone was rushing to fill their plates before something ran out, breakfast had a much calmer atmosphere. When we arrived, there were only we in the restaurant, and as we finished, some other people arrived. A small hotel like this is great like that, there is no rush and breakfast isn’t hectic!
As it was our last day in France, it was lovely to have a proper French breakfast, all fresh, homemade and absolutely delicious!

Why It Stood Out From Other Hotels
Over the years, we’ve stayed in quite a few hotels across France. Some have been perfectly nice, some have been very practical and a few have been very disappointing.
Aux Temps d’Em in Montreuil-sur-Mer falls firmly into the category of hotels that I’ll actually remember.
That’s quite a compliment because, if I’m honest, many hotels become a bit of a blur after a while. This one didn’t.
Partly because of how comfortable it was, but also because it suited the destination so perfectly. It felt like an extension of Montreuil-sur-Mer itself.
Warm, welcoming, full of character and relaxed. It was everything you would want a French hotel in a typically French town to be.

Who Would Love Staying Here?
I think this hotel, and Montreuil-sur-Mer, would particularly suit couples looking for a romantic break or families with older children who would appreciate and enjoy the experience of being in a true, typical French town and love the history of it. The rooms are all upstairs on floor one or floor two, so it wouldn’t be suitable for anyone unable to use stairs, unfortunately.
The peaceful setting, beautiful surroundings and easy walk into the town centre make it ideal for wandering hand in hand before enjoying a leisurely dinner in one of the local restaurants. For families, there really is something for everyone to explore, but nothing particularly suited to little ones as far as I noticed.
It’s also perfect for anyone doing a French road trip. If you’re travelling between Calais and somewhere further south, it makes a great overnight stop about an hour out of Calais that feels like part of your holiday rather than just somewhere convenient to sleep.
History lovers will love being so close to the town’s famous ramparts, while photographers would probably find themselves just as happy as I was, constantly spotting another beautiful corner worth capturing.
I also think it would suit people who simply enjoy smaller, independently run hotels. If you prefer somewhere with personality rather than another anonymous chain, Aux Temps d’Em is exactly the kind of place you’ll enjoy and it fits perfectly into Montreuil-sur-Mer.

Would I Stay Again?
Without a second thought. In fact, if we return to Montreuil-sur-Mer, I honestly can’t imagine booking anywhere else.
There are plenty of hotels where I’ve enjoyed my stay, but I would probably look around to see what else is available next time. This isn’t one of them.
Aux Temps d’Em became part of the reason we loved Montreuil-sur-Mer so much. The comfortable room, peaceful surroundings, excellent breakfast and genuinely welcoming atmosphere all combined to make our stay feel much more than just an overnight stop.

Looking back at our road trip through France, it’s one of the hotels that immediately comes to mind when people ask where we stayed. Not because it was the biggest or cheapest. Simply because it got everything right. By the time we drove away the following morning, I wasn’t just recommending the town to friends and family, I was already thinking about this blog post!
It turned what was meant to be one practical stop on our journey into somewhere I’d happily build another trip around.
Enjoying the Evening in Montreuil-sur-Mer
One of my favourite memories of our stay wasn’t a famous landmark or a particular attraction. It was simply wandering through the town in the evening.
There’s something magical about French towns as the day begins to wind down. The pace seems to slow even further, people gather outside restaurants and cafés, glasses of wine appear on tables and the streets take on a completely different atmosphere.
That’s exactly what Montreuil-sur-Mer was like. I went for a walk on my own to explore the walls and town. I was out much longer than I thought I would be and took at least 300 photos! It never felt crowded or noisy, but there was enough going on to make it feel lively. Families were out enjoying the evening, couples were taking leisurely walks, and restaurants were filling with people settling in for dinner.
There are a few quite steep hills in the town which aren’t immediately obvious, but it all felt like such a lovely walk, I didn’t mind. I saw so much that I felt my brain slow down, and a smile naturally grew on my face. I loved every bit about the town and the walls; it was just how France should be!

Where to Eat
One thing you’ll certainly never struggle with in Montreuil-sur-Mer is finding somewhere to eat. Despite being a relatively small town, there’s a surprisingly good choice of restaurants, cafés and bars, ranging from simple French bistros to fine dining. Whether you’re after a relaxed meal with a glass of wine or something a little more special, you’ll find plenty of options within easy walking distance.
You can easily leave your car parked at the hotel and simply stroll into town for the evening. That might sound like a small thing, but after spending most of the day driving, not having to think about traffic or parking again makes such a difference.
There are plenty of outdoor terraces during the warmer months, and sitting outside watching the world go by feels like the perfect way to spend an evening. If you’re planning to stay during peak holiday periods, it may be worth booking ahead for the more popular restaurants, particularly if you’re hoping to eat at one of Montreuil-sur-Mer’s Michelin-starred restaurants.

A Place That’s Made for Photography
Anyone who knows me knows I rarely go anywhere without taking far too many photographs. Montreuil-sur-Mer definitely didn’t disappoint.
It’s one of those places where every street seems to offer another picture-perfect scene. Beautiful old doorways, colourful shutters, flower-filled window boxes, historic churches and winding cobbled streets all seem to compete for your attention.
Then there are the views from the ramparts. Looking across the rooftops towards the surrounding countryside, it’s easy to see why artists and photographers have been inspired by this town for so many years.
I found myself constantly stopping to take “just one more photo”, only to spot something else a few metres further along. If you enjoy photography, I’d recommend allowing yourself much longer than you think you’ll need. You’ll probably spend as much time taking photos as you do walking!

Is One Night Enough?
When we booked our stay, one night felt like plenty. Now I’ve been, I’d happily stay for two or three. One night gives you enough time to wander around the town, enjoy dinner and walk the ramparts, but I don’t think it does Montreuil-sur-Mer full justice.
Another day would have given us time to browse all the independent shops, linger over a long lunch in one of the cafés, revisit some of my favourite photography spots and simply soak up the atmosphere without keeping an eye on the clock.
It would also make a great base for exploring the surrounding area.
The seaside resort of Le Touquet is only a short drive away, there are lovely beaches nearby, and the rolling countryside surrounding the town is perfect if you enjoy scenic drives through rural France.
If your itinerary allows it, I’d definitely recommend staying longer than we did.

Practical Tips for Visiting Montreuil-sur-Mer
Looking back, there are a few things I’d recommend if you’re planning your own visit.
Wear comfortable shoes
The cobbled streets are beautiful, but they aren’t ideal for flimsy footwear. If you’re planning to walk the ramparts as well, comfortable trainers or walking shoes will make exploring much more enjoyable.
Allow time to wander
Don’t make the mistake of planning every minute. Some of my favourite memories came from simply wandering whichever street looked interesting.
Bring your camera
Even if photography isn’t your hobby, you’ll almost certainly want plenty of pictures of Montreuil-sur-Mer. The town is incredibly photogenic, especially during the golden hour before sunset.
Stay overnight if you can
Although you could visit on a day trip, staying overnight lets you experience the town once many of the day visitors have gone home. The quieter evening atmosphere was one of the highlights of our visit. For the room we stayed in, for 3 adults it was €146 for the night, which isn’t too bad at all and was definitely a good price when we saw how amazing the area and hotel were. Breakfast was, I think, €16 each, which is a little more than other places we had stayed, but I promise it is worth it!
Don’t just use it as a motorway stop
This is probably my biggest piece of advice. Montreuil-sur-Mer deserves to be enjoyed, not simply used as somewhere convenient to sleep before getting back on the motorway.

Frequently Asked Questions
Is Montreuil-sur-Mer worth visiting?
Absolutely. What started as a practical overnight stop quickly became one of the unexpected highlights of our French road trip. It’s full of history, charm and beautiful scenery, yet still feels so relaxed.
How long do you need in Montreuil-sur-Mer?
You can see the main sights in a day, but I’d recommend staying at least one night. If you enjoy slower travel, history or photography, two or three nights would be even better.
Can you walk around Montreuil-sur-Mer?
Yes. Once you’ve arrived, everything in the historic centre is within easy walking distance. We parked the car and didn’t need it again until we left the following morning.
Is Montreuil-sur-Mer a good stop from Calais?
Definitely. At around 45 minutes to an hour from Calais, it’s perfectly placed as either your first night in France or your final stop before heading home.
Is Aux Temps d’Em worth staying at?
Without any hesitation, yes. We found it welcoming, comfortable and full of character. The peaceful location, beautiful room and excellent breakfast made it one of our favourite hotels during our trip. If you are visiting Montreuil-sur-Mer, definitely consider Aux Temps d’Em.
Is Montreuil-sur-Mer suitable for families?
I think so. Although it doesn’t have big theme parks or lots of child-focused attractions, families who enjoy exploring historic towns, walking and relaxed restaurants would have a lovely time in Montreuil-sur-Mer.
When is the best time to visit?
We visited during the summer and loved being able to wander around in the warm evening sunshine. Spring and early autumn would also be beautiful, with fewer visitors but still plenty of opportunities to enjoy the town on foot.

My Honest Thoughts
There are places you visit because they’re famous, and then there are places that quietly work their way into your heart without you expecting them to. Montreuil-sur-Mer was definitely the second.
Looking back over our road trip through France, it stands out as one of the places I remember most clearly. Not because we packed loads of attractions into our visit or ticked off a long sightseeing list, but because it made us slow down. Aux Temps d’Em was a huge part of that experience too.
It’s one of those rare hotels where the accommodation becomes part of the holiday rather than simply somewhere to sleep. Everything about it, from the warm welcome to the beautifully designed room and delicious breakfast, reflected the same sense of care and quality that we found throughout the town itself.
Would I recommend Montreuil-sur-Mer?
Without question. I absolutely loved it there and I am smiling just typing about it. An amazing French town you couldn’t ever not love!

Would I stay at Aux Temps d’Em again?
In a heartbeat. All three of us said we would love to go back but stay longer next time. It was nice to stay somewhere individual that wasn’t a chain with everything white and clinical. It was unique, special and typically French.
If you’re planning a road trip through northern France, whether you’re heading towards Normandy, Brittany or much further south, I’d encourage you to look beyond the motorway service stations and anonymous chain hotels. Build in a little time to explore somewhere like Montreuil-sur-Mer instead. I don’t think you’ll regret it.
The photos throughout this article are just a few of the ones I took, so if you want to see more, do let me know! Does this sound like somewhere you would like to visit? Do you like the sound of Montreuil-sur-Mer and Aux temps d’Em? Let me know in the comments below.
